Project: Street Beetle to Subaru powered Sand Bug

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mrlongtravel
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Post by mrlongtravel » Thu Feb 19, 2004 12:04 pm

I am curious. how much is this thing going to weigh? 2000-3000#?

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Post by r erfert » Thu Feb 19, 2004 9:07 pm

mrlongtravel wrote:I am curious. how much is this thing going to weigh? 2000-3000#?
I think he is looking at about 2-3 dollars a pound :)

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Post by snewbank » Fri Feb 20, 2004 12:17 pm

Ok, this question has been nagging me for awhile. Everybody seems to think this is going to be a 2000 pound car but I just couldn't see it. Mostly because I have been manhandling it around (lifting up the front-end and rear-end) by myself and I'm not a particularly strong person.

So, I think I devised a way to weigh it and I tried it out this morning. I don't know how original this idea is but I took a bathroom scale, a pair of jack stands and a length of 2" square tubing I had laying around to use as a lever. The tubing was a little over 7' long so I marked off a couple of inches on each end to make it exactly 7' long. This is where the two jack stands will support it (directly under the marks). I then divided 7' (84") by 10 to get 8.4" and made a mark that far in from one side (this is my fulcrum point). I attached a bar clamp centered on the fulcrum point to provide a spacer from the rest of the vehicle. I put the 7' square tube under the car and on top of the floor jacks at the two ends I marked and put my scale under the outside floor jack. Here are some pics.

Image

Image

It took me a couple tries to find the center of gravity but I found a point where the front wheels were touching the ground but it only took a pinky finger to lift the front-end up (close enough). The scale read 100 pounds...

100 x 10 = 1000 pounds

However, after I raised the car off the square tube I realized that I forgot to deduct the weight of the jack stand and tube on the scale. This was 15 pounds. So...

100 - 15 = 85 x 100 = 850 pounds

This is how much my car weighs right now. Figure the Subaru will add (250#?) and the tranny (75#?) and add four seats, roll cage, rear tires, rear disc brakes, and some other light weight stuff and it will probably be about 1200-1350 pounds when I'm done (I'll remember to weight it again when it is complete). I suppose if you add 4 people to that, you'll get 2000# but I've seen some small rails that weight this much. Not too bad.

Knowing this, I'm glad I did what I did yesterday. I took my 002 back to Transform because I was concerned the gear ratios where too close. It's similar to their stage five but with even closer gear ratios. It's geared for full-size long travel rails that run a VW engine. I don't want to be shifting all the time. They didn't have any others there so they are going to re-gear mine to something inbetween stock and what it is currently at no extra charge. It should be ready next Tuesday.

BTW - Here are some pics of my new engine...

Image

Image

It's really clean inside and out. No oil leaks or even oil tarnish in the engine!

I plan to work on the trailing arms this weekend and see how much travel I can get by modifying the torsion tube end stops. After that, I'll probably do some finishing-up work on the front end and maybe work on the roll cage if I have time.

It's getting there little by little :D
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by snewbank » Fri Feb 20, 2004 12:19 pm

r erfert wrote:
mrlongtravel wrote:I am curious. how much is this thing going to weigh? 2000-3000#?
I think he is looking at about 2-3 dollars a pound :)
more like $10 a pound :cry:
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by r erfert » Fri Feb 20, 2004 6:01 pm

Looks nice so far...I personally don't combine square and round steel,but
it look good so far.curious to see how the cut up tunnel works with your supporting added...When your finished remember to keep the shinny side up...Scrap steel is still only worth about 1-1/2 cents a pound.

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Post by snewbank » Mon Feb 23, 2004 12:00 pm

Well, I didn't get as much done this weekend as I hoped but I did the following:

1.) Finished up mounting the 1pc fiberglass front end with T-handles
2.) Worked on the Engine a little. Replaced oil pan with the short one from Outback. Removed A/C Compressor (for now) and Power Steering Pump.
3.) Cut-off torsion tube end plate stops to give the swing plates more travel. (see pic).

Image

This angle gives me 15" of travel using the 3x3 arms. I measured the CV angles and it looks like it will be about 25 degrees. My CVs are supposed to be clearanced for 28 degrees so I should be good there.

4.) I also ground down the splines on the inside end of the Torsion Rods (so they will turn freely) and put them back in (see pic).

Image

I hope this will help prevent the swing plates from twisting outward when I step on the gas pedal.

I didn't get around to working on the roll cage. I hope to get something done on it tonight.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by vdubduner » Tue Feb 24, 2004 10:20 pm

your doing what i always want to,but dont have the welding scills or the time to do.
build a baja and dune in the summer with ac.
looks really cool.
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Post by snewbank » Wed Feb 25, 2004 10:44 am

Mr. gotdunes wrote:your doing what i always want to,but dont have the welding scills or the time to do.
build a baja and dune in the summer with ac.
looks really cool.
I don't have much welding skills either :lol:

But you gotta learn somehow. Actually, I think I could lay down a pretty good bead now if I could just get chance to weld something that doesn't require my body to be in some extremely uncomfortable contorted position. (thinking of last night) :roll:

Regarding time: Think how much time you think it would take and multiply that by 10. That figure seems to be accurate for me.

But the AC will be "cool" when it's done.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by snewbank » Thu Feb 26, 2004 11:10 am

I painted my rear Trailing Arms last night. Considering it was 100% humidity, they came out pretty good.

I bought them at Transform and they were all rusty so I took them back to see if they had any that weren't so rusty. They said they're all like that and all I need to do is wire wheel them and paint them. When I wire wheeled them, I found lots of pitting under the rust. So I decided to check out PCU's yesterday and sure enough, There's are all rusty and pitted too!

Apparently the MFG (Made in USA) doesn't bother to oil them before sending them out. How about that Pride in Workmanship.

Also, I bought some HD Chrome Swing Plates. It turns out not only are these thicker than stock but they are taller which means the end plate stops that I cut to get 15" travel won't give me 15" wit the HD ones. I can't see cutting anymore off the end plate stops so I will try trimming the swing plates tonight.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by MT Buggies » Thu Feb 26, 2004 3:45 pm

Sounds like it is sure coming along!
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Post by im3wheeln » Thu Feb 26, 2004 7:40 pm

I took my SAW spring plates down to a machine shop and had them machine it to the same whith as the VW spring plates. They turn out real nice. It's kinda hard to tell they've been cut but here's a pic of the plates installed on my buggy.

Click here for photo

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Post by snewbank » Fri Mar 05, 2004 11:13 am

Update:

Well, last weekend I got the tranny installed. Here is a picture of the body cuts required to fit an 002 Bus into a Sedan:

Image

Also, I installed the spring plates, trailing arms, 930 CVs, axles, disc brakes and wheels without any real problems and finally got to see what it will look like with all fours on the ground. Here is a picture:

Image


After that, I built-up a gas tank support cage. I am using the stock gas tank (10.6 Gallons plus fuel gage) but because I installed an R&P, the gas tank wont fit in the same location. Plus, with the one piece front-end, there is no longer a front support for the tank. So the support cage raises the tank 4" and provides support for the front. Here are a couple of pictures of the tank support.

Image

Image

Now comes the hard part. I bought a couple 12" travel 2.5 Coilovers from King and just need to figure out how to build the upper mounts. Originally, I was going to mount the rear shock completely out of the car but this presents a number of problems such a tire clearance, body clearance and top mount strength. So, I decided to mount the shocks through the inside wheel wells into the back compartment space. I plan to run a tube up from the stock upper shock mount, a tube up from the rear corner of the firewall where the rollcage ties in and will also tie into the tranny horns from underneath. These two tubes will converge to create the upper shock mount. Also, I will run a tube across the two shock mounts to give it some lateral stability.

But, before I can do that, I had to build-up my swing plate stops a little. It turns-out, I got a little ambitious on the amount of travel I could get with the 930 CVs clearanced for 28 degrees and I can feel the CVs binding at full droop. As a matter fact, the swing plates wont even hit the bottom stops because of the CVs binding. How did I get my measurements and angles so far off? Anyway, I added some 3/8ths inch filler material to build the stops back up. I guess I notched a lot more out of more spring plates then I really needed :(

After getting the end stops straightened-out, I fabbed-up some bottom shock mounts out of 1/4" plate.

The hard part is finding a point in empty space where all the supports should converge to make a top shock mount that will allow for maximum use of shock travel for the given trailing arm travel taking into account the forward and inward shock sweep angles and the leverage point on the trailing arm. Shew!! that was hard to say. And now I have to actually do it!

It will probably take this whole weekend just to put together the Tops Shock Mounts. I'll try to bring pictures Monday.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by AlxCook » Fri Mar 05, 2004 12:59 pm

this is such an awesome project, everytime I see a new post I can't wait to see the next step..................keep them coming.
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Post by snewbank » Fri Mar 05, 2004 3:57 pm

Thanks :D
Scott

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Post by texas duner » Fri Mar 05, 2004 4:58 pm

what he said . looks like your doing some good work and have things figured out well. good luck . David
David

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Post by r erfert » Fri Mar 05, 2004 7:48 pm

Hey Scott how about running a limiting strap??
Rick

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Post by snewbank » Mon Mar 08, 2004 12:09 pm

r erfert wrote:Hey Scott how about running a limiting strap??
Rick
I'm trying to avoid using Limiting Straps. It's just not as clean as having built-in stops. Plus I always wondered what keeps the straps from streching over time which could allow you to exceed the limits in your CVs. On the otherhand it would probably be quieter with limit straps. You wouldn't have to hear a clinck! everytime you get airborn as your swing plates hit the stops.

Anyway, I already got the fixed stops worked-out so limit straps would be pointless now.
Scott

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Post by TroyB » Mon Mar 08, 2004 1:21 pm

This has to be the most interesting thread on the board. Thanks for the updates. I cant wait for the end of the weekends to see what you have accomplished. Great job, cant wait to see it finished.

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Post by TLB » Mon Mar 08, 2004 5:03 pm

I too enjoy seeing your progress.

Keep up the good work, and thanks for posting the photo's.
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Post by snewbank » Mon Mar 08, 2004 5:56 pm

Well, I ran into a problem and failed at my mission to get the shocks finished this weekend. :( After measuring everything hundred times I started to build the upper shock mounts and when I got to the point where I could test fit a shock, I discovered that the spherical bearings at the ends of the shocks don't provide enough off-axis angle to mount the shocks where I intended them to go. Specifically, I planed to mount the shocks as far outboard on the trailing arms as possible and the top would mount inside the rear compartment which means the shocks would be angled in somewhat. When I went to mount the shock, I found the spherical bearings were maxed-out sideways with the arms fully extended. When the arms move-up, the angle would increase which would cause the shock to bind.

To make a long story short. I decided the best thing to do would be to exchange the 12" shock for a 10" shock. That way I can mount the bottom of the shock farther in on the trailing arms which will reduce the amount of angle the spherical joints will have to deal with. Either way, it won't impact the total amount of travel I will have in back since that will be dictated by the CVs. Right now, I think I will get 13"-15" of travel in back when I'm done.

Since I didn't have the right shocks to mock-up the supports with, I decided to head to "Pick-A-Part" to see if I could find a radiator and fans for my motor. I found a '90 Subaru Legacy and pulled the radiator and dual fan assembly. It cost me $120. More than expected. That place is making some serious profits. But still, it's a lot cheaper than the $600+ Ron Davis solution. I suppose I could have used the radiator from any number of small cars there but there may be some other factors I wasn't sure. Such as:

1.) What the capacity and cooling efficiency requirements are for the Suby motor.
2.) I assume the stock Suby water pump and thermostat is designed and optimized for the Suby Radiator in terms of flow rate, volume and back pressure.
3.) Even if the above isn't critical, the '90 legacy Radiator seemed as good as any.
4.) Most importantly, the AC Condenser is designed to sit in front of the radiator. In fact, it's about the same size as the radiator.

Speaking of AC, I checked out the AC system on the '90 Legacy. Everything seemed there: Condenser, Compressor, Evaporator, Receiver/Dryer and hoses all seemed intact. However, the '90 uses R12 and my motor came with an R134 AC Compressor so I got some questions to answer before I bother pulling the stuff out.

1.) Can you get an R12 system recharged in California still or is the only option to convert to R134 now?
2.) Will my R134 Compressor work with the R12 components or do I need a conversion kit?
3.) How much does a Conversion kit cost?
4.) Is a complete R134 system less efficient than a complete R12 system or it just R12 systems converted to R134 that are less efficient?

After going to Pick-A-Part, I did some more work on the rear suspension supports. As much as I could without the actual shocks I will be using.

I called King today. My 10s should be ready next Thursday.

I haven't taken any pictures of the work I did this weekend yet. I want to get the shocks in, take pictures, then use the pictures to help explain how I put the whole rear suspension support system together. I think it's going to be really strong since it distributes the shock loads across the torsion housing, rear frame horns, body and roll cage. Yet, I should still have plenty of room for rear seats. Maybe even a Sub-woofer in the rear compartment!!! :)

Tonight, I'm going to work on some of the roll cage supports. Maybe this week (while I'm waiting for my shocks), I will start running some fuel line and add a second tap to the gas tank.

BTW - Thanks for the support :D
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by porboy » Mon Mar 08, 2004 7:49 pm

You can still get R12 but you need to have a connection in the AC business. That stuff is like gold now. in my opinion the 134a doesn't cool as well. ( My suburban had R12 and I was forced to convert, not as cold but still good). You can buy conversion kits. They aren't to bad. It usually consists of new seals and oil. Out of curiosity, did you try using some high mis alignment spacers for the shocks? It is looking real good. Keep the updates coming.

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Post by MT Buggies » Tue Mar 09, 2004 10:36 am

Definetly looking good. Might have to be my next project!
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Post by snewbank » Tue Mar 09, 2004 10:41 am

I was thinking of grinding-down the existing spacers to make them like a high-misalignment spacer but I'm glad I didn't. When I talked to King yesterday, they said the spherical bearings aren't designed to take high loads when offset. He said the bearings would probably be pushed-out over time with that setup.

It looks like I'm going to have to go with R134. I wonder where I can get a conversion kit.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by snewbank » Tue Mar 09, 2004 10:58 am

Woohoo!!

Mike at King just called and said my shocks are ready so I'll go there after work and I can start working on the shocks again tonight.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by porboy » Tue Mar 09, 2004 11:50 am

Any auto parts store will carry the AC conversion.

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Post by r erfert » Tue Mar 09, 2004 9:34 pm

porboy wrote:Any auto parts store will carry the AC conversion.
Yes make SURE you have fun with them...
Remember (insert year) VW beetle with the subaru conversion :? :lol:
I am sure they will look at you funny :?:
Just :) and say what :!:

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Post by snewbank » Thu Mar 11, 2004 11:27 am

r erfert wrote:
porboy wrote:Any auto parts store will carry the AC conversion.
Yes make SURE you have fun with them...
Remember (insert year) VW beetle with the subaru conversion :? :lol:
I am sure they will look at you funny :?:
Just :) and say what :!:
"....For a '71 Subawagon. Yes, Subawagon. It's a Germaneese company. You never heard of them?..."

:D
Scott

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Post by snewbank » Mon Mar 15, 2004 5:29 pm

Finally!!!

I finished the rear suspension. Here's what I did.

1.) I cut the ends off the old stock shock mounts and welded 1/2" thick plates on the ends

Image
Image


2.) I welded a 2" square tube across the bottom to the 1/2" thick plates.

Image
Image

3.) Then I built some new shock towers out of 2" square tubing and welded plates to the bottom of those so I could bolt them through the rear compartment floor to the 2" sq tube underneath. Also, I drilled some holes and installed some 3/4" OD 1/2" ID tubing in the towers for shock bosses. (I should probably put some gussets on them for added strength though)

Image
Image

4.) Then I reinforced the towers by tying them into the rear roll cage mounts with 1.5" tubing and welded another 1.5" tube across the two shock towers.

Image

5.) Then I reinforced the rear roll cage mounts by tying them into the transaxle frame horn ends.

Image

6.) I welded-in the bottom shock mount tabs I made awhile ago.

Image

Here is what the complete rear-end looks like (hard to make out with all the clutter though).

Image


It seems pretty solid. I used mostly 1/2" Grade 9 bolts everywhere possible. Unfortunately, I had cut some huge holes in the side of the wheel wells to do this. :( I need to square those up some and find a way to seal it otherwise the paddles will probably fill the rear compartment up with sand. :shock:

Right now I have 12.5" of travel in the rear. The CVs are just above Max in the down position but I still have room for more up travel if I clearance the top stop but I want to make sure there will be enough clearance for the oil pan when I bottom out first. If I have enough room then I will probably clearance it for another inch or so.

Also, I bought a new gas tank. An old '60s style with the built-in gas spout. I had to cut a hole in the fiberglass hood because the spout won't clear with the hood down but at least I wont have to open the hood to add gas now :)

The big thing was welding in another bung for the return fuel line. The tank is really thin and easy to burn through with the welder so I practiced welding on the old tank and after burning some holes in the old tank, I decided to try and solder the new bung on with some plumbers solder, flux and a propane torch and when that didn't work very well, I decided to just go for it with the welder. I set the output to 25% (the lowest I could get a steady arc with my .030 wire) and to keep the temp of the tank down, I tack welded one side then the other then back to the first side and then the other until I welded all the way around the bung. It looks ugly but no holes at least :) I just hope it doesn't leak.

On the side, My brother and I had to weld a new hitch on to our trailer this weekend. Last time coming back from G, the trailer unhitched itself on one of the side streets in Brawley. :shock: Fortunately, we were going really slow at the time (coming out of a parking lot) so no damage was done. But, it looks like the hitch is just too worn-out to hold the ball anymore. We were able to rig the hitch so it would stay on for the rest of the trip home. Anyway, we cut the old one off and welded the new one on. I decided to use a stitch weld and naturally, the bead looks 10x better then anything I've done on the Baja. :roll:

I went paint crazy this weekend. I used some carb cleaner on the new gas tank to clean off the flux I was using before welding it. I sprayed some carb cleaner on it, turned to grab a paper towel, turned back and the paint was already peeling-off. :shock: So much for that paint job. The tank was made in Mexico and based on the way it was already getting scratched-up so easy and then the carb cleaner thing, I think they actually used black shoe polish instead of real paint. :roll: So, I painted it aluminum color. I'm digging that aluminum color paint so I went ahead and painted the radiator aluminum, and the fan shrouds aluminum. It makes the car look so much lighter 8)

I need to buy some fuel tubing. I want to run rigid metal tubing down the center channel and use rubber line at the ends. I'm not sure where I can find the metal tubing though. Also, I need to buy a high pressure fuel pump, regulator and some high pressure fuel line for the fuel rails.

Tonight I'm going to try and finish-up the roll cage supports.

Need to start on the brake lines too.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by TroyB » Mon Mar 15, 2004 10:06 pm

Looking good :D . I do have to agree with you on the gussets for the rear shock towers. Maybe between the towers and the shocks or just to play it safe, do booth sides. I hade may shock mounts bend on the first ride :twisted: . What offset on the rear rims are you going with. Hard to tell from the pics but the body and paddle clearance looks like its going to be close.

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Post by porboy » Tue Mar 16, 2004 11:35 am

I would suggest mounting those rear shocks in "Double shear". It would help with load transfer snd strengthen the whole assembly.

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Post by snewbank » Thu Mar 18, 2004 5:42 pm

TroyB wrote:Looking good :D . I do have to agree with you on the gussets for the rear shock towers. Maybe between the towers and the shocks or just to play it safe, do booth sides. I hade may shock mounts bend on the first ride :twisted: . What offset on the rear rims are you going with. Hard to tell from the pics but the body and paddle clearance looks like its going to be close.
I think I will add some gussets then. The rims are pretty far offset. with that and the 3x3 arms, there will be plenty of room. As a matter of fact, I'm thinking of putting on a stubby type fender (for cosmetic reasons) and I think it would even clear that. Here are a couple of pictures. In both pictures the passenger side tire is at full compression (see the jack underneath it).

Image

Image
Scott

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Post by snewbank » Thu Mar 18, 2004 5:45 pm

porboy wrote:I would suggest mounting those rear shocks in "Double shear". It would help with load transfer snd strengthen the whole assembly.
I'm not clear on the term "double shear". Do you mean I should add a cross brace from the top of one tower to the bottom of the other tower and vice versa?
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Post by jhitesma » Thu Mar 18, 2004 5:48 pm

Double shear means making the bracket so the bolt is supported on both sides instead of leaving the bolt hanging on one side.

BTW - what I like best about this project is that the photos make me feel better about the mess in MY garage :D I just spent 20 minutes making room and cleaning so I can assemble my motor tonight :shock:

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Post by snewbank » Thu Mar 18, 2004 6:00 pm

jhitesma wrote:Double shear means making the bracket so the bolt is supported on both sides instead of leaving the bolt hanging on one side.
Oh, your talking about the Shock Boss. I got you now.
jhitesma wrote:BTW - what I like best about this project is that the photos make me feel better about the mess in MY garage :D I just spent 20 minutes making room and cleaning so I can assemble my motor tonight :shock:
CLEANING-UP!!! What's that???

Wait.. "Cleaning-up" means you have to go get the tools you just put away. This is a Counter-productive exercise.

Just do what I do.... use the side of your shoe as a push broom to make a clear spot on the floor or to make a trail to the part of the garage your trying to get to. :D :D
Scott

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Post by porboy » Thu Mar 18, 2004 6:17 pm

Jason is right. (First the compression thing and now this, who would have know :wink: ). You would take a small piece of tubing with the same ID as your bolt and add it to the side with the nut. Then take some tubing from that small piece and tie it into your cage. Here is a picture to help visualize it.
Image

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Post by quad1100 » Thu Mar 18, 2004 7:24 pm

I saw this on ebay and thought about all the work you are doing.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 2467144926

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Post by vdubduner » Thu Mar 18, 2004 11:45 pm

i say that car for sale on a desert board last year ,with a price of $40,000.00 too much for a bug.
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Post by Winston Cup » Fri Mar 19, 2004 12:01 am

They're right about the double sheer.

Now you ain't gonna want to hear this but I do see a problem here as well.
Image
When your dealing with box tube, flat metal boxed and welded or anything like that, you need to always keep in mind that the strength is in the corners, or edges, not in the middle. You always want to distribute the load to the corners.
What's gonna happen here is that eventually, and quicker than you might think, that area around that tab is gonna flex and flex with each bounce, fatigue and then crack. You've already made that area around the tab brittle by just welding it. Then if you don't catch it and it breaks through on that one side, the shock is gonna take a nasty side load and it'll bend or break the shaft. You need to cut those tabs off and make ones that will go all the way from one edge or corner to the other. I know it sucks to back track but I strongly suggest it.
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Post by jhitesma » Fri Mar 19, 2004 1:58 am

I was going to dig up photos of Jasons old car and new car to show the difference between single and double shear...but I guess he beat me to it :D

As for cleaning. When I'm just doing general wrenching...yeah shove the crud away with my shoe and find a clear spot. But for putting a motor together I want a pristine area to work in! Cleaned out half the garage, cleaned off the workbench and put out an old piece of shelf that had some nice clean smooth formica on it. The works!

And we got it done! I have a longblock :D Well, almost I have an oil pump question but I'm too tired to post it tongiht so it will wait for tomorrow! (Basically I found that the pump that came with my Baja has bigger gears than the one that was in the Manx. I think I can swap to the bigger pump to get more volume of oil but I want to post shots of both first to make sure I won't be creating big problems!)

I only expected to get a shortblock together tonight but Rick was on a mission and after we got the shortblock together he was ready to keep going so we did. Looks like I'll be driving my Manx by saturday afternoon :D

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Post by snewbank » Fri Mar 19, 2004 12:14 pm

Regarding the upper shock mount, I agree that I need to put a gusset on the shock boss as well as a thick backing plate for the gusset. However, it seems that the only advantage of a double sheer over a gusseted shock boss is to help prevent the bolt from sheering off (assuming the bolt is kept tight). I'm using Grade-9 1/2" bolts which I understand are rated for something like 190,000# break strength which I would think the sheer strength should at least be something like 120,000# which is almost 100x the weight of my buggy which means in order to produce that much force, I would have to take 100G landing in which case I would be nothing more than a burst meat sack crater in the ground and the last thing on my mind would be how my upper shock mount held-up :)

Also, I think a gusset should be enough because that should eliminate that part as the first weak-point. After doing that, it will be something else that is the first to break. Also, I have seen more shock mounts that don't use a double sheer than those that do so I think it will be ok with just a gusset and backplate. Also, in order to do an effective double sheer, I would have to make longer shock towers which means I would have to rebuild them from scratch. I would rather just do gussets and if they still bend then I'll make new shock towers for double sheering.

Regarding the lower mount, you right, I don't want to hear it :) Actually, I hadn't even considered that as a potential problem. Mostly, because I have only seen mounts similar to mine used on other boxed trailing arms. It looks like for the inside mount I may have gotten lucky because it is close to the edge already and the other end of the inside mount (which you can't see in the picture) is welded to the end of the spring plate mount so in effect, it creates a brace across the entire top surface. For the outside bracket though, maybe like you said, I should cut it off and make a brace that goes all the way across the top. I don't suppose the fact that the arms are chromoly and I don't plan on jumping the Doubles at Olds is enough for me to not worry about it? :(

Regarding the Baja for sale on E-bay, I almost went to tears when I saw the dollar amount of $7900 but then I guess it hasn't even met the reserve yet. And you say you saw it for sale for $40k? Ok, I feel much better now :)

Still, you may be shocked to know that I have put in about $18K into this one so far. $18K!!! I think my original budget was no more than $10K. How did that happen?!? It's amazing how the little things add-up. And my car doesn't even have A-arms! $18K for only 13" of travel is kind of depressing :(

I just gotta think it's $18k for an Air-conditioned, Subaru 2.5 powered, close ratio bus trannyed, King shock suspended one of a kind sand toy. Right? :)

jhitesma wrote:Looks like I'll be driving my Manx by Saturday afternoon :D
Lucky dog :(


We are heading to Glamis next weekend. I wanted to have the Baja drivable by then but I just don't see it happening.

Right now I am working on the brakes. I replaced the master cyl and bought a Jamar dual handle turning brake. I'm just running the brake lines now. This weekend, I would like to get the fuel lines done but I have been having a very hard time finding steel/aluminum hard fuel lines. All the AP stores have is precut with flared ends up to 5' and I need at least 7' feet to make it down the center tunnel.

Anyway I am going to try and find that this weekend. Also, I think I might go to Pick-A-Part and pull the A/C system out the '90 Legacy before someone else does. I'll need the condenser so I can work out the Radiator/Condenser mount frame dimensions. I'm heading to Outback now to pick up a fuel pump.

Things I still need to do:

- Finish Brake Lines
- Run Fuel Lines
- Do the wiring (I am putting together a wiring diagram right now and got some relays on order)
- Cut diamond plate for firewall
- Install engine!!!
- Build Radiator mount
- Get hoses made for Radiator and Intake
- Build temp exhaust flange (I'm using a turbo header so when I can afford a turbo, I wont need to by a new header)
- Install seat mounts then seats and belts

I hope to knock out some of these things over the weekend but I also got to get the RV prepped for next weekend (dump tanks, fill propane and fix some things that broke last trip) How about that Fleetwood quality? :(

I got a question.. They can make car roofs that don't leak and need resealing after two years and every year after. Why can't they make a freakin' RV roof that doesn't???

Oh well, that's something for a whole other topic.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by snewbank » Mon Mar 22, 2004 12:19 pm

Well, I went back to Pick-Your-Pocket this weekend to pull the AC system out of the '90 Legacy they had their and apparently they junked the only semi-late model Subaru they had :( .There were some 80's Subarus there but the AC system on those (specifically the condenser) wasn't they same as the 90 and later models.

So I went to another Pick-Your-Pocket in Long Beach and couldn't find any 90's-later Subarus so I hit another P-Y-P in LB that had a "Primo yard" ('88 and later vehicles) and found a '90 Legacy in fairly good condition.

I pulled the condenser, evaporator and blower unit with expansion valve, Receiver/Dryer, and all the hoses. I expected to pay $200+ but they only charged me $120 (Woo Hoo!!!) for everything. I know online a used condenser alone is $157.

The AC system appears to be in great condition too. When I pulled the first hose, I got a long discharge of R12 Freon (I'm sure the Enviros would love to hear that). Honestly, I assumed they had already recovered the R12 before putting it in the yard (figured there was some Fed requirement for that). Besides, R12 is worth gold now, right? Maybe a person could turn a tighty profit by going to these P-Y-P places on the weekends and using a Freon recovery setup, pull as much R12 out of these old cars as possible and then turn around and sell it. Hmmm? How much is a pound of R12 worth?

Also, on the way back, I saw some metal supply place and decided to check if they had any 5/16" aluminum tubing for my fuel line and they actually had some (Bonus). I have been searching everywhere for that stuff and all I could find is the precut 5' lengths at AP stores. I bought two 12' lengths and was happy to pay $30 for it.

Back to work, I spent most of the weekend prepping the RV for next weekends trip but I was able to get some more work done on the brakes last night. The front brakes are done and I am working on the rear now. I pulled the brake line splitter by the torsion housing and plugged on of the holes. I drilled a hole in the battery compartment area and ran a separate line to the passenger side brake. Then I fabbed-up some new brake line brackets and welded them to the trailing arms. Then I cut off E-brake handle mounts on the center tunnel so I can mount my turning brakes in it's place.

All I have left to do is weld a 3/16" plate on the top of the center tunnel, tap some holes in it, mount the turning brake, cut the brake lines to the right length, put a double flare on the ends, then make the hard lines that will connect the rear calipers to the rubber house attached to the trailing arms. I might make some stand-offs for those lines and weld them to the trailing arms to keep them from moving too much. After that I'm done with the brakes. I hope to do that tonight.

Next will be to run the fuel lines. Originally, I planned on running the aluminum send/return lines down the center of the tunnel but I'm concerned they may bang around inside the tunnel since I wont have access to the tunnel to put braces along the way so now I think I'm going to run them through the front firewall, along the passenger side of the center tunnel, then out through the firewall next to the battery compartment so I can mount them to tunnel along the way.

I will try to get some pictures tonight.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by jhitesma » Mon Mar 22, 2004 12:41 pm

If it makes you feel better I ran into some delays and haven't gotten to drive the Manx again yet. We did get the motor finished, installed and started last night. But I still need to deal with a bowden tube issue on the tranny and there are a half dozen or so bolts that still need tightening.

Also have to bleed the brakes and retorque the axle nuts before I can drive it again....maybe tonight :D

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Post by NOSJunkie » Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:03 pm

The fuel line that your looking for is sold at Summit in 25" rolls comes red blue and polished, they have anodized fittings also.. Joe
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Post by vdubduner » Tue Mar 23, 2004 9:09 pm

Image
to see more of the add go here:
http://race-dezert.com/index1.html
Baja Bug PreRunner
ID#:7135; Date posted: Mar 17

Make and Model : VW convert. Baja Bug Category :Pre-Runner City : San Juan Capistrano , State : California
Year : 1971

Price : 19500
1971-V.W. Convertible, CA street legal, complete tube frame, long travel coil over suspension, 105' wheel base, Jamar disc brakes, power rack & pinion steering, VDO guages, 091 trans, 930 CV's, 2000 cc VW Engine, Weber carb, built by the Baja Shop, comes with stock VW convert. top assembly w/ windows. A 'must see' $19,500
Darrin
http://gotdunes.com


"I love the smell of wet sand in the morning"

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Post by snewbank » Wed Mar 24, 2004 10:37 am

That's pretty kool. I wonder how much travel it has. Mine will end out costing about the same but at least I have a 2.5 Subaru. :D
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by vdubduner » Wed Mar 24, 2004 5:39 pm

was wondering if your going to keep it street legal,plus yours will have ac.

wish i had the doe to buy that vert,drive to work,cruise with the top down,has a top if it rains,oh dream dream dream.
Darrin
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Post by snewbank » Wed Mar 24, 2004 5:53 pm

At this point "Street Legal" is a relative term I think. I could register it as street legel but to make it truly street legal, I would have to have fenders to completely cover the tires, right? That might be possible. Also, I think I would need to install street legal headlights (Laser Stars are slightly illegal I think). Add some turn signals. Reinstall Windsheild wipers. What else am I forgetting?

I have to decide soon how to register it (Licensed or Green Stickered). Once it's green stickered, I don't know how hard it is to go back.

Licensed = Need to insure it plus higher reg cost.

I still haven't decided. But probably Green Sticker.

The other problem - I have a 1:1 ratio Steering Rack. How is that going to behave at 45-60 MPH?

Hmmmm. It's a difficult choice.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by snewbank » Thu Mar 25, 2004 11:57 am

Well, I finally finished the brakes. Here is a picture of the turning brakes and the plate I had to weld to the center column and tap threads into:

Image

I ended up using hard line in the rear because it's cheaper then braided. Also, if I used braided, I would have had to find a way to secure to the trailing arm so it wouldn't flop around. So I fabbed-up some brackets to mount the stock rubber hoses to the trailing arm and ran hard line from that to the calipers. Not as pretty as braided but maybe more reliable. Here is a picture:

Image

Also, here is a pic of the AC Blower/Evaporator unit I scrounged out of a '90 Legacy last weekend.

Image

I just need to find a way to mount it under one of the rear seats. I think I can trim it down a little. I don't need the recirculation flap and servo. Also, I think I can duct the AC to the existing heater ducts under the rear seats that feed along the door seal to the front and then duct it up to the dash. I should even be able to scrounge some round style dash vents with directional shutters at Pick-Your-Pocket to give it that finished look.

Last night I mounted my rear shock reservoirs (you can kind of see one of them through the rear window in the picture below). Also, I cut/mounted some aluminum Diamond Plate to the rear firewall (got have some shiny stuff) :)

Image


Next is running the fuel line. However, tonight I got to load the RV, fill the water tanks, and pack the trailers cause were going to Glamis tomorrow!!!! :) :) :)

I wanted to bring the Baja on this trip but as you can, I'm not even close to finished.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by porboy » Thu Mar 25, 2004 5:59 pm

L =D> ooking good.

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Post by TroyB » Thu Mar 25, 2004 9:33 pm

Its hard to tell, but it looks like the brake line is really close to the lower shock mount. If those two rub together you could end up with a hole in the brake line. Just wanted to point it out just in case you didnt notice.

Did you say you are going to the dunes this weekend. No way, you cant. You will not get anything done to the baja. I will have nothing to look forward to next week :lol:

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