Project: Street Beetle to Subaru powered Sand Bug

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Post by porboy » Wed Jan 26, 2005 10:25 pm

Scott,
Regarding your glare problem, that is why most race cars will mount the light bar forward of the windshield or in the middle of the roof. That glare can get nasty.

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Post by jhitesma » Mon Mar 28, 2005 4:30 pm

Hey, guess who I finally saw at Gordon's this weekend.

Image

We were stopped taking photos of our cars in a couple of fun little bowls we found when this silly little red bug came though with a couple of friends. I was in the process of getting into my car for my turn as the subject so I yelled over to Matt to snap a few of the red bug.

Image

Image

Image

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Post by snewbank » Mon Mar 28, 2005 5:33 pm

Hey that's me!! :D

I wish I would have seen you. I would have stopped to chat.
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Post by jhitesma » Mon Mar 28, 2005 5:35 pm

It looked like you were with a group so we figured it would have been kind of hard for you to stop. I would have tried to flag you down too but I was already partly strapped into my car.

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Post by snewbank » Tue Mar 29, 2005 4:35 pm

Attention Reader: Due to a restore problem, the ASA BBS lost all postings between 2/28/05 and 3/28/05. Fortunately, I have a backup of all the major updates I have made to this thread since 2/28/05. Unfortunately, I don't have a backup of everybody else's posts and responses to this thread after 2/28/05. Anyway, there were three major updates from 2/28/05 to 3/28/05 that I can remember and here they are....



Baja Update 3/1/05


Well, I used this weekend to work on the "ticking" sound. I dropped the radiator fluid, disconnected the wire harness, fuel lines and gas pedal. Pulled the engine off, removed the CVs and axles, drained the tranny oil, pulled the tranny out, pulled the clutch bell housing off, removed the drive flanges, pulled the differential out of the tranny, removed the ring gear from the diff, pulled the diff apart, looked inside and.....

Everything looked perfectly fine. Doh!!! :(


I inspected all four pinion gears (which verifies it is a superdiff) and the end gears and couldn't find any marring or anything wrong with them. While I had it apart, I inspected the ring and pinion gears (verified it is 4.57:1 R&P).

Image

Image

I couldn't find any problems so I set about to put it all back to together. As I was reinstalling the CVs and axles, I noticed the passenger side CV was binding a lot at full droop. I tried turning the tranny over by hand and noticed a very slight "ticking" sound. Doh!!

This is the same side that the diagonal arm pin came out of a few trips back and the arm fell down and tore apart my CV. I had to replace the swing plate and one CV to repair it. The new swingplate had to be notched to get the max CV angle. After notching it, I measured the CV angle and it seemed about 25-26 degrees at the time. Apparently my stops have been beaten-in a little so I welded-up the stops a little and ground them flat now it doesn't bind at full droop.

Image

I hope this fixes the "ticking" sound. It's strange though that back when we were testing the CVs for the sound we were able to stop that side with the turning brake and still here a ticking side. I don't know. I'll just have to test drive it and see.

After putting everything back together, I decided to work on a another problem I've been having. Last few trips I noticed the front driver side wheel would rub against the fender when ever I hit a hard bump. Mostly I could tell by the smell of burnt rubber after hitting a hard bump and I could see a line in the tire tread from where it rubbed. I didn't notice this on the first few trips but maybe I'm driving a little harder with it know.

I was planning on trimming the fender wells back a little but figured it might not look good with out the same lines. Plus it would be hard to find to define a new line to follow. Then I decided "what the heck, I'll just cut the wheel wells off all together". I don't really need them anyway and might increase visibility at the front a little bit.

So, I was cutting the driver side fender off and no sooner than I finished, I noticed that the shock towers on the front beam where bent and twisted-up!!!

Image

Image


As many time as I opened the hood, I never noticed it until now. This explains why my wheels were starting to rub now and not so much in the beginning.

Doh!!! I cut the fenders off for nothing!

Sort of, I don't know of a stronger front beam I can get. This is the Chromoly 6" wider beam for 10" coilovers from Latest Rage (I think). I experimented with trying to bend them back (just to see if I could) using a 15" monkey wrench and noticed the steel is kinda springy and not as rigid as I would think.

Also, I noticed that the beams themselves are slightly bowed upward. It's very slight and hard to tell.

Bottom line, I need to do something about this. I notice Eagle Products makes a 6" wider for 10" coilover beam that uses shock hoops instead of towers but it actually looks even weaker then what I have now. Plus the lateral struts would probably interfere with my gas tank.

Instead, I've been looking at my beam and it seems it could be strengthened quite a bit by boxing-in the shock towers to form sort of a triangle tube. Also, the beams themselves can be reinforced easily enough by welding some plate in between the two tubes kinda like an I-Beam. The question is should I try to straighten-out this one and then reinforce it or should I buy a new beam that's already straight and reinforce that? Or...

Should I just let it go for now and maybe this summer look into converting it over to an A-arm front end?


I just stumbled across these pictures in the ASA Photo Album under Jason's folder.

Image

Image

Did Hitesman take these pictures? Does anybody know how well this front-end worked-out? How much travel?

This may be the way to go.

Meanwhile, here is a better picture of the front-end with the wheel wells cut-off.

Image

Image


Maybe the new look will grow on me.






Baja Update 3/14/05


We went to Gordon Wells this weekend and had some great runs. Then we went to the sand drags. It was pretty whooped-out in the middle as usual so I tried to stay to the left side of it. I got some MiniDV video of my first run....


(Sorry, this is an 88MB MiniDV AVI clip that's only 24 seconds long. Best to download it first then view it. Eventually, I am going to get an AVI to MPEG converter):

http://www.newbankster.com/baja/Videos/ ... -003-1.AVI


...then on my second run I was trying to catch-up to a Long-Travel and I hit the jump at a bad angle. When I landed, I started to get a little sideways, hit another whoop, came down and popped the bead off the drivers side paddle.

My brother got the first part of this on video (25MB, 6 seconds):

http://www.newbankster.com/baja/Videos/ ... -003-4.AVI

Here is a still from the video:

Image

For a second there, I thought I was going to roll it. When I straightened out, I got back on the gas but the left-rear felt funny (that's when I knew I popped a bead). I rolled over to the side of the track, got out and went to the back. Besides debeading, my radiator had popped out of it's rubber mounts, came down on the engine and put all kinds of leaks in it. It was spraying coolant everywhere and that's when I knew I was done for the weekend. We towed it off the track and I went back to camp to get the trailer.

After looking at the video, it looks like all the trouble started when I hit the jump on the side where the jump was tapering-off which sent the right side higher then the left. Also, I wasn't accelerating up the jump enough which pitched me forward a little so when I came down my left-front tire hit first and the right rear-end landed last (and the hardest) it bottomed-out in a whoop and then the whoop launched the right-rear back up in the air which through me a little sideways then on the second landing, the left-rear was pitched into a whoop and it popped the bead. Oh well, at least I lived to learn from my mistake.

Anyway, regarding the radiator, I never quite felt comfortable with the rubber mounts. Here is a picture of the grommets on the original radiator:

Image

I lost them on track somewhere so I just lifted the radiator-up and stuck the raw bolts into the holes to keep it supported while I towed it back to camp. Also, we used a tie down to hold the radiator in place. Anyway here is a picture with the grommets missing:

Image

You can see how the bolt doesn't go in very far and the hole for the grommet is very large so it's easy to see how it could pop-out on a hard landing. It would have helped if the bolts where longer. Anyway, I think I'm going to make some custom grommets on my mini-lathe out of aluminum and some rubber hose and that should keep it from ever coming out again.

I ordered a new radiator today since the old one is quite mangled now. Fortunately, it is a stock radiator from '90 Subaru Legacy and not some super expensive custom Ron Davis type radiator so it only cost me $100 and should be here tomorrow.

Regarding the debeaded tire, whenever something breaks, I want to do an upgrade so it doesn't happen again. So.... I'm looking at getting some beadlocks (big $kaching$) and while I'm at it, I think I'm going to get some STU Sand Blaster 33s for the rear. There a little taller then my Extreme Hole Shots which means I should get a little more ground clearance in the rear so less chance of bottoming-out hard on the skid plate. This is one problem with using a Subaru. It hangs a little lower then a VW motor so ground clearance starts to become an issue. I'm glad I made the skid plate to protect the oil pan but I'm kinda wondering if the front edge of the skid plate dug into a whoop on that jump because in the video it almost looks like someone threw an anchor off the right-rear end on that first landing.

Anyway, another advantage to the STU 33s is it would gear me up a little bit. I kinda have a surplus of power in 2nd gear with the turbo on it and it would be nice if my gearing was a little higher for more speed. the downside to the 33s is it will put a little more stress on the tranny (I hope it can take it) and it might "stink bug" it a little. Also, I definitely will need beadlocks on the 33s.

So... new tires and beadlocks in the rear but what about the front. I can't have beadlocks in the rear and not in the front. So.... beadlocks all the way around and two STU 33s (big big $kaching$).

Better get started. Our next trip is 3/25 and we are going for three days this time (hopefully).


Baja Update 3-16-05


I made some now grommets out of a bar of aluminum using my mini-lathe and I made some bushings for the new grommets out of some 5/8" ID radiator hose and some pieces of a neoprene mouse pad. Here are some pictures.

Image

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The radiator mounts should be much stronger now.


Also, I was able to reseat the tire using my air compressor. The tire seems to be fine. I haven't got around to getting new tires and wheels yet.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by snewbank » Tue Mar 29, 2005 5:41 pm

jhitesma wrote:It looked like you were with a group so we figured it would have been kind of hard for you to stop. I would have tried to flag you down too but I was already partly strapped into my car.

One of these days were actually going to meet. :D


We got into Gordon's Thursday night and went right to bed. Friday morning we were just starting to unpack our stuff when Mike (mawieche) who was camped about 100 feet away from us came wondering over to look at the Baja. We talked for awhile and I asked if we could move our RV into their wagon circle instead of camping by ourselves. We have never camped with another group before and we had a blast (Thanks Mike).

One of the guys in the camp was replacing a CV boot on his long travel and had the wheels off. They were STU 33s and I took the opportunity to roll one over to the Baja to see how big they would look on it. Here is a picture of an STU 33 leaning against my Xtreme Hole Shots:


Image


The STU 33s are really big. They would give me significantly more ground clearance in the rear but I am kinda concerned about the stress to the 002 tranny. I just don't know.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by TurboLark » Tue Mar 29, 2005 6:58 pm

Are you using 13.00's or 13 pluses?
Phil

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Post by snewbank » Wed Mar 30, 2005 10:15 am

TurboLark wrote:Are you using 13.00's or 13 pluses?
I think 13.00's are made by STU. I have "Hole Shots" made by Xtreme. They are kinda close to the STU 13.00's or 13.00 Plus.
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Post by TurboLark » Wed Mar 30, 2005 11:57 am

Ok, then do you know the height of your holeshots? I cant seem to find a websire for Xtreme.
Phil

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Post by snewbank » Wed Mar 30, 2005 12:07 pm

TurboLark wrote:Ok, then do you know the height of your holeshots? I cant seem to find a websire for Xtreme.

Near as I can tell Xtreme doesn't even have a website (one of my beefs in another post).

If I remember correctly, I measured my Hole Shots as being 28" tall.
Scott

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Post by TurboLark » Wed Mar 30, 2005 12:40 pm

Cool, I just ask because I am getting a pair of used 13.00 pluses for real cheap. They are 31" tall and just trying to get a reference on height compared to a know number(your car).
Phil

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Post by mawieche » Tue Apr 05, 2005 7:50 pm

We had a real good time with you guys also. thx. We will definatly have to camp together again. I ended up staying a week again... poor me. I have to tell everybody that his car will dune real well, he only had one issue when he stopped and kind of had it off balanced a little bit. A funny story; Paul (Scott's brother) was driving an old school car with very little travel (no bump stops either) and we went on a ride. Paul (a different one) who I consider to be one of the best drivers around was leading in a mid travel buggy then Paul (old school) then Scott then me (mid travel manx,red manx in the picture secttion) we were gettin after it pretty good and took a break. That little blue old school car was on it the whole way and was right in the middle of it.. My hat is off to your group Scott and we will have to do it again. If you get a chance to get through the crowd that surronds his baja every time he stops talk to him..great people. M
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Post by Scooby-Dune » Fri Apr 08, 2005 3:27 pm

Thanks Mike. We're not worthy; we're not worthy...! We all had a great time with your whole camp, good people! :D
Yea, that was a great run. Me and ol' blue had loads of fun staying behind Paul. No problem! :shock: Right, first day back at work and every one is asking why are you walking around hunched over like IGOR? :mrgreen: (walk this way, master).
No doubt we will hook up again. Those campfire stories alone are worth the drive to the dunes! Hey, what's that pigeon doing outside my door. :shock:

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Post by TurboLark » Fri Jul 15, 2005 10:26 am

Anything going on with the project Scott? Need a fix of a cool update here since I havnt done jack to mine.
Phil

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Post by snewbank » Mon Jul 18, 2005 11:20 am

Sorry, I haven't done anything since the end of the season. I'm sure as October gets closer I'll start getting into it again. I'm thinking of making a new (even wider) front beam since the one I have is getting bent up already. I figure a wider front beam will make it more stable. Maybe something 18" wider then stock. We'll see.
Scott

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Post by TurboLark » Mon Jul 18, 2005 1:18 pm

I was thinking of doing a 8-10" over beam for the same reasons. I plan to use te 4" trailing arms also, so that will widen the whole thing as well.
you might want to look into adding some reinforcement bars further out on the beam also, that will help with bending in the future.
Phil

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Post by BajaBuggin » Mon Nov 07, 2005 5:52 pm

Any updates? Hows the car running so far this season?

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Post by snewbank » Sat Dec 17, 2005 12:06 pm

BajaBuggin wrote:Any updates? Hows the car running so far this season?
We moved to Idaho Falls in early November so we only got one Glamis trip in this season and we got here a little too late for St. Anthony season. So, it looks like we will have to wait until April/May before our Dune season begins up here. :cry:

For now, the Baja is sitting in the garage (to keep it out of the snow :shock: ). The one thing I would like to do is revalve all the shocks (I want to make it stiffer in back and softer in front). However, I used to live 2 miles from the King Shock factory. Now I live 900 miles from it so I got to figure out how to get them there. I'm sure postage on 4 King shocks ain't cheap.
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Post by Scooby-Dune » Thu Jan 26, 2006 10:01 pm

snewbank wrote:So, it looks like we will have to wait until April/May before our Dune season begins up here.
Looks like you couldn't wait that long. :?
Image

Albeit only two runs. It was fun. :D :D :D

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Post by RobC » Fri Jan 27, 2006 6:40 am

Man that looks COLD :shock: . Think I'll stay here in Phx.
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Post by LoBuck » Fri Jan 27, 2006 1:23 pm

RobC wrote:Man that looks COLD :shock:
No kidding. I got up and turned on the heater when I saw that last night. :lol:
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Post by scott-the-viking » Sun Jan 29, 2006 7:55 am

snewbank wrote:
I used to live 2 miles from the King Shock factory. Now I live 900 miles from it so I got to figure out how to get them there. I'm sure postage on 4 King shocks ain't cheap.[/quote wrote:
I really do feel for your situation. We used to live in Phoenix and it seemed as if everything I ever needed was just a few minutes of driving away. Now......now I live in lunch meat Washington and everything is days away. Actually, it is normally more than days away because I have to send back 70% of the stuff I mail order due to the fact that it is not what I ordered. :roll:
So...have you started pricing snow mobiles yet? :wink:
AND Baba Booey to you all.

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Post by snewbank » Tue Apr 04, 2006 5:05 pm

Well, I had the first real breakdown in the baja.

I was charging up the backside of Crappos Hill last Sunday in 3rd gear, pedal to the metal, full boost and I spun the teeth off of 3rd gear. Doh!!!

I had to pull the CV's off the wheels just just so we could tow it back to camp because the tranny kept locking with all the bits of metal floating around inside.

I pulled the gear stack out yesterday and took some pictures.

Image

You can see 3rd gears on the main shaft and pinion shaft are missing half their teeth.

It's an 002 Bus Tranny I bought from Transform (Not so reputable, I know). It was their Stage-5 Tranny with Superdiff, Steel Forks, Welded Hubs, Race Cross Shaft and Hard Keys. A 4.57 R&P, 3.30 1st, 2.23 2nd, 1.70 3rd and 1.30 4th. All Gem Gears I think.

I talked to Ron at Weddle about buying some new 3rd gears. He mentioned that I'll need a shift fork jig to reset the shift forks and some other special tools. I already had to make a special tool to remove the ring nut around the pinion gear just to get the gear stack out (see below).

Image

I was planning on replacing the gear myself but between the cost of special tools and the other unknown factors, I decided it would best just to send it to someone else who can inspect the other parts closer (magnaflux) and make sure it goes back together right. Ron recomended Mark's Sand Trans in Oregon.

So, I talked to Mark and he seemed reluctant to take it once he found out it was a Transform Tranny. He said he was afraid he would open it up and find all kinds of "questionable" parts and we would end-up replacing everything when it would be better just to get a new tranny.

Both Ron and Mark seem to think that based on the weight....

(I'm saying 2000# just be safe but I think it weighs a lot less then that. I need to get around to weighing it again) [OK, Fine, I just went to the garage and weighed it again using the same technique describe on page two of this post. I came-up with 175 lbs minus the weight of the jack stand and square tubing on the scale (28.5 lbs) equals 146.5 lbs times ten (I used a 10' tube this time with the fulcrum point 12" in from one end) equals 1,465 lbs. I have the engine and tranny out now so add 260 lbs for an EJ25 and 75 lbs for an 002 and the grand total is...

1,800 LBS


which is about 500 LBS more then I orginally predicted.]

....and the HP (I'm saying 300) that I'm pushing the limit of an 002 tranny. Mark recommended that I go to a Mendeola MD4E and I wouldn't have to worry about breaking again. But a MD4E cost about $5,400 and then I have clearance issues between the top mounted starter on the MD4E and the rear deck of the Baja and I don't think the MD4E will fit in between the stock frame horns for the tranny. Plus, I would have to get new axles because the distance between the two CV flanges would change. So besides being a lot of money it would also be a lot of work to put a MD4E in.

Another option I talked about was replacing all the gears in my 002 with Weddle gears but then the R&P becomes a weak point and Mark said it would be just a matter of time before I blew the R&P.

So, option three is to go with a fully built 091 which is stronger then an 002 but not as strong as an MD4E. Besides being cheaper, the 091 should be a direct drop in replacement for the 002 which means no modifictions and no new axles.

Mark said he is back-logged a couple months on work so I called Rancho Performance. They said it would cost about $300 in labor and $200 in parts to replace the 3rd gears in my 002 with Weddle 3rd gears and they have about a 2-3 week back-log right now. Still, I'm thinking if I just fix it there's nothing to say something else in the 002 won't break next time I go out and I don't want to have to pull the tranny again anytime soon.

So I asked if they had any 091 in stock (kinda hard to find right now, I here) and they just happen to have one that they built for somone else who changed their mind at the last minute and went with a Mendeola. This 091 is suppossed to have every upgrade possible for an 091:

Rancho 091:
- All Weddle Gears (New)
- Superdiff
- Chromoly diff covers
- Chromoly pinion nut
- Gusseted case
- 930 CV flanges

and a bunch of other upgrades.

Gear ratios are similar to what I have in the 002

- 4.57 R&P
- 3.44 1st
- 2.25 2nd
- 1.67 3rd
- 1.30 4th

$3200 out the door.

They shipped it to me today :D

I should be back in the dunes weekend after next :D :D

I've been thinking about building my wife a mid-travel with a normally aspirated Subaru 2.5. If I fix the 002, it should work great for her so at least the 002 isn't a total loss.

BTW - Here is a nice picture of the Baja at St. A with the Grand Tetons in the background (just above the light bar).

Image
Scott

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Post by scott-the-viking » Tue Apr 04, 2006 5:23 pm

Glad to see an update from you...even if it is about something breaking :( . For what it's worth...I really think you're making the smart choice going with the 091.
I live just a few miles from Mark's, so I had him build me an 091 several years ago, I have not had a single issue with it...yet.
AND Baba Booey to you all.

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Post by r erfert » Tue Apr 04, 2006 6:13 pm

Just a thought :idea: Can you build/fab a trans mount for the 091 and still retain the 002 mount? that way you could use the 002 for a spare when the time comes :D

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Post by snewbank » Wed Apr 05, 2006 8:42 am

r erfert wrote:Just a thought :idea: Can you build/fab a trans mount for the 091 and still retain the 002 mount? that way you could use the 002 for a spare when the time comes :D
Hmmm. My understanding is that the 091 uses the same mount as the 002. Is that wrong?
Scott

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Post by jhitesma » Wed Apr 05, 2006 9:35 am

I believe one of them is an inch longer than the other but can't remember which.

The mounts are in the same locations...but you need spaces to fit one into the others mounts. I want to say the 091 is longer but that seems to obvious and for some reason obvious dosn't sound correct to me :D

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Post by mawieche » Wed Apr 05, 2006 10:19 am

On pres day I broke three teeth of the pinion on my 002. Took it in found out 1 and 2 were also bad. After adding a super diff and various other parts I was back in buisness I thought. Trip after next blew up 3rd. gear. Looked just like yours. Magged ok but.....(gem gear). All weddle stuff now I hope that it holds together.
Funny that you got a Rancho trans. I was in Calif. a couple of weeks ago and called them hoping that they had one on a shelf. (091) Nope three to four weeks out. Timing is everything.. See you at the end of July..
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Post by snewbank » Thu Apr 06, 2006 9:10 am

jhitesma wrote:I believe one of them is an inch longer than the other but can't remember which.

The mounts are in the same locations...but you need spaces to fit one into the others mounts. I want to say the 091 is longer but that seems to obvious and for some reason obvious dosn't sound correct to me :D
I think your right. Rancho did mention that the 091 is about 5/16" longer. I'm thinking that's at the bell housing end but even if it isn't. Hopefully a couple of spacers on the bottom two bolts that bolt the engine to the tranny to the tranny adapter will do the trick. I have the "Bus into Bug" adapter kit and I don't recall there being two diferent kits (one for 002 and one for 091).

Also, Rancho mentioned that this 091 was machined to except an 002 starter.

I hope everything fits-up alright.

mawieche wrote:On pres day I broke three teeth of the pinion on my 002. Took it in found out 1 and 2 were also bad. After adding a super diff and various other parts I was back in buisness I thought. Trip after next blew up 3rd. gear. Looked just like yours. Magged ok but.....(gem gear). All weddle stuff now I hope that it holds together.
Funny that you got a Rancho trans. I was in Calif. a couple of weeks ago and called them hoping that they had one on a shelf. (091) Nope three to four weeks out. Timing is everything.. See you at the end of July..
That's too bad Mike. It's exactly the scenario I'm afraid which is why I'm just not satisfied with fixing 3rd gear in my 002. I really wasn't hitting it much harder then I often do at the sand drags when it broke.

After hearing your story, I'm especially glad I decided to upgrade to an 091. Also, I hear Weddle gears are the strongest you can get. I hope yours and mine hold up for a few years at least.
Scott

Idaho Falls

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Post by bullittprod » Thu Mar 15, 2007 7:35 pm

hey scott AWESOME job mate. i stumbled across this website while i was searching for info and pics of class 5 ,class 5/1600 bugs. im not only new to this forum but new to vw's. i am a mustang (1970 mach 1) ford guy my whole life.im from australia but live in NJ now.while im living in america i want to race in the baja 1000. i cant find any rules so i dont know what im looking for. any tips on the difference between the class's i.e, what it costs to build a bug for 5/1600 & class 5. suspension,drive train's,cage's etc etc. again fantastic job mate , cheers......callan.
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Post by crash » Fri Mar 16, 2007 7:15 am

bullittprod, try this site. It has a "rulebook" area on the left menu that should help ya.

http://www.score-international.com/

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Post by KBWAKESK8 » Tue Jun 05, 2007 4:08 pm

I have watched your build for a while and the car is awsome. Im building a with a lot of the same ideas.

Image

Image

the pic's of your beam made me come up with this
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Post by Woodglue » Wed Jun 06, 2007 8:04 am

Nice looking bug!
Welcome to the board KBWAKESK8! :wink:
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Re: Project: Street Beetle to Subaru powered Sand Bug

Post by KBWAKESK8 » Tue Jun 15, 2010 3:56 pm

any up dates

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Re: Project: Street Beetle to Subaru powered Sand Bug

Post by LoBuck » Tue Jun 15, 2010 11:21 pm

KBWAKESK8 wrote:any up dates
I don't think anyone's heard from Scott for while. Not even the guys in Idaho around St. Antony.
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Re: Project: Street Beetle to Subaru powered Sand Bug

Post by snewbank » Sat Aug 14, 2010 1:13 pm

I'm still alive. I just fallen of the dunin' map. I just happened to check this BBS because I'm lookin' to sell the Baja Bug. I haven't been dunin' for a couple of years even though I live only 40 minutes from St. A. We have been getting into camping a lot for the past couple of summers and St. A. isn't all that great to camp at (better just for day trips). Instead we have been going to the local mountains to camp which have a lot of trials. It's a lot better than camping in commifornia. We usually camp by a creek and the next closest campers are a mile away. This place is filled with off-road trails (try finding that in California). I have been riding dirt bikes mostly now (CRF-450X).

I missed the dunes a little but it is a lot easier to just bring my quad (Suzuki Quad-Racer 450) for a couple of hours if I'm goin' then to bring the Baja bug. Plus, dunin' season is in the summer here and it stays light tell 9:30-10:00PM so having an enclosed rail is less of an issue here compared to glamis where you could do a lot of night riding and it can get cold.

Anyway, I've decided to sell "Swurvy The Hate Bug" to make room for more toys :D Like my two Snowmobiles (dunin' is still funner then sleding though) and maybe a boat eventually. Plus, I have been real busy with work so finding the time to go dunin' is getting harder. I don't see much of a market for the baja here so I am sending it down to my dads house in Lake Havasu where there should be more interest (he says you can actually drive sand rails on the street in havasu). Also, I still have some of the Air conditioning parts I was going to install but I don't need it around here but in Havasu, an Air-Conditioned Baja-Bug could be pretty "kool". I don't know what I'm going to be asking for it yet but considering I put over $30k into building it, I hope I can get most of it back at least.

I'll probably be listing here eventually when it's ready to go.

Anyway, talk to you later.

-Scott
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Re: Project: Street Beetle to Subaru powered Sand Bug

Post by LoBuck » Sun Aug 15, 2010 12:48 am

Hey Scott, good to hear from you! Glad things are well with you. Good luck with the sale of the Baja. It sure was fun to follow the build.

Later. 8)
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Re: Project: Street Beetle to Subaru powered Sand Bug

Post by snewbank » Wed Dec 22, 2010 11:10 am

Well, I listed it for sale.

Here is the Link:

http://www.americansandassociation.org/ ... 44#p225644
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Re: Project: Street Beetle to Subaru powered Sand Bug

Post by snewbank » Thu Jul 28, 2011 1:32 pm

Sold
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