I have really been slacking the past couple of weeks. Which is why I haven't been posting. This weekend, I started on it again. Here is where I am at.
The Clutch Issue:
I shortened the bowden tube and was able to finally get the wing-nut on. However, when I press down the clutch peddle, it feels like there is a lot of stress on it (making creaking noises and such). The clutch appeared to be engaging a little but not as much as it should. I noticed the stress was so great that even the bowden tube was flexing. Finally, I decided to take back my Stage III pressure plate (2600#) back to Outback and replace it with a Stage II Plate (2100#). Also, I got a new Bowden tube as my other one was showing signs of wear. I put it all in yesterday and the clutch peddle seems a little smoother but there was still this clinking, creaking sounds. I got a flash light and looked down the center tunnel from the front clip and had my girlfriend press on the clutch pedal a few times. Sure enough, the whole clutch tube inside the tunnel was flexing by huge amounts. I could see one of the standoff mounts had broken-off and alas, there is no way to get in there to weld it back on (aside from cutting a hole in the tunnel).
So, it looks like I might have no choice but to go with a Hydraulic Pedal Assembly "ka-ching
". I noticed PCU and Moores has an HPA for $150 and it looks like it might mount in a beetle with out too much work. However, I don't think the brake master cylinder has a brake light switch and I don't know how many brake line ports it has. I want to have brake lights since my brothers buggy doesn't stop very well
One time I went over a razor back and directly on the other side was a witches eye. I managed to stop just before going into it. But...then my brother came over the hill behind me. I remember looking in my rear view mirror cringing
He locked-up his brakes but because it was a steep downhill he kept sliding. Bang! and he pushed me right into the witches eyes. It took us about half an hour to get my rail out of it (bad angle, kept burying itself) and I had a semi-crushed exhaust header to show for it
I doubt brake lights would prevent something like that from happening again but in the future, I want to give as much warning as possible when I am slowing/stopping.
It might be possible to adapt my brake switch to a brake line port if I can get a splitter. I will have to check that out.
Air Filter to Throttlebody Intake Duct:
Last weekend, I made it my mission to solve the intake duct problem. I special ordered a 2.75" ID Radiator Hose (used mostly on Semi-trucks) that had a real tight 90 degree bend in it ($30). I then went to the local Midas shop to see if I could get some short lengths of 2.75" OD muffler tubing but all they had was 2.5" and 3". I tried a number of other places and couldn't find any 2.75" OD tubing anywhere. I got home all frustrated whining about it to my girlfriend and then she said "What about the old Corvette exhaust system that has been sitting in the backyard for years" (I replaced the stock cat-back exhaust on my Corvette a few years ago and it has been sitting in the backyard every since. People have been trying to get me to throw it away for years but I kept saying "No way, it's Stainless Steel. I can sell it in the Recycler ". I never did. Dumbfounded, I grabbed my calipers and ran to the backyard. Sure enough, it was 2.75" OD tubing
I grabbed my skillsaw and started cutting away. See! it pays hang on to worthless crap. ....sometimes. There was even some choice bends in it I ended-up using
Anyway, I trimmed off on end of the Radiator Hose to get the 90 degree bend as close to the throttle body as possible. Then I cut an oval hole in the diamond plate I mounted on the firewall. Then I hammered a dent into the firewall itself. This provided enough room for the intake duct (radiator hose) to clear the firewall as it curved back to the engine. See picture.
I wanted to mount the air filter horizontally to the firewall and as close to it as possible to get it out of the hot air stream of the radiator fans. I spent some time looking at the radiator hose to figure out how I could cut it so I could rotate the bends in the hose, mend them together with exhaust pieces and put the Air filter right where I wanted it. Then I made my cut. It was all wrong
So I improvised
Here is the finished intake duct with air filter attached.
I'm hoping the air will dam-up a little on top of the radiator and be forced down in-between the radiator and body and my air filter will be in a stream of cold air.
Next on the agenda is getting the Radiator Hoses figured-out. I tried hitting a number of Auto Parts stores and it appears that you can't just buy straight radiator hose off a spool cut to the length desired. I need long runs about 40" for each hose. Even if I could buy it at the length I need, it turns-out that radiator hoses are less flexible than I was thinking they were. Specifically, If I try to put any kind of tight 90 degree bend in it, it will collapse the hose and restrict flow. Originally, I was going to have the hoses custom made (molded) but it turns out the place I thought could do it, doesn't do it. More over, I'm not sure molded hose can even be done as a one-off at a low price. What the AP stores do have is precut lengths on universal flex-hoses. I might be able to use some of these in combination with some 90 degree 1.5" metal tubing. I will check this out tonight.